Here’s what you need–and what you definitely do NOT need–to train your dog with positive reinforcement!
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An important note before we get started: I do not recommend aversive tools. Ever. Inflicting pain is never required for learning. Period. End of story. I’ve had people argue in the comments that tools like e-collars, when used correctly, blah blah blah. In my opinion, there is no correct use. There isn’t a single thing that is taught better by hurting or shocking a dog. So, if you’re here to argue, don’t bother. There’s a better use of both our times, promise.
What is positive reinforcement dog training?
A super quick definition from HSUS: “Positive reinforcement training uses a reward for desired behaviors. Because the reward makes them more likely to repeat the behavior, positive reinforcement is one of your most powerful tools for shaping or changing your dog’s behavior.”
In other words, you focus on rewarding your dog for what he or she does right. How does your dog know what’s right? You “mark” the correct behavior–usually with a click, sometimes with a word, other times with a visual.
It takes time, accuracy, consistency, and fun–plus a few tools.
The Must-Have Tools for Positive Reinforcement Dog Training
You only need two things to start:
- something with which to mark your dog’s behavior, and
- something with which to reward your dog’s behavior.
Tools to Mark Your Dog’s Behavior
A clicker: the most common, the most precise, a clicker delivers a sharp “click” at the press of a button that instantly marks your dog’s correct behavior.
- This 4 pack is the simplest and most affordable option at about $1.50 a piece, though this one fits nicely in your hand and has an extendable stick for targeting.
A whistle: an alternative to the clicker, a dog training whistle delivers a precise, unique sound to mark behavior. It can be used effectively at great distances.
- This set includes a whistle and a clicker. The pet-training specific whistles fit in your teeth, so it leaves your hands free. A whistle an excellent alternative for anyone who has difficulty balancing multiple tools or who struggles with hands or fingers.
A word: “yes” or anything you can come up with. Some people pull a word from a foreign language so your dog doesn’t hear the word in other contexts.
Why a word versus a clicker or whistle? Maybe your dog is scared of those sounds or perhaps you have a disability with your arms or hands that prevent you from using or carrying the tools. Or maybe you train both so that you can always mark and reward your dog even if you don’t have your tools with you. Lots of reasons to add in a word as a mark!
A visual marker: thumbs up, an ASL sign like the sign for “yes,” or a cue card.
Why use a visual cue? Well, my dog Penny is deaf! No click, whistle, or word would ever work for her! Or, if you’re a deaf trainer who doesn’t want to rely on an auditory cue you can’t know for certain is working. Lots of reasons for visual cues, too!
A tactile marker: a touch or puff of air.
Hopefully by now you’re seeing the full-access, all-inclusive thread. These cues work well for deaf-blind dogs and for deaf-blind dog owners. For the puff of air, blowing threw a straw provides a firm, steady stream of air. A light touch works as long as you deliver it at the same spot and the same pattern consistently.
Tools to Reward Your Dog’s Behavior
Your dog has performed the correct behavior! Yay! You marked it right on time! Double yay! Now comes the reward.
Food is the first most obvious and usually the best choice. Nearly every animal will be motivated by food if the animal is in good health, he’s a little hungry, and it’s a food he really, really likes. Lots of people say their dog isn’t food motivated. I’d suggest trying different foods first and then maybe testing a toy instead. Here are three tiers of food rewards to consider:
- Low-value rewards like pieces of kibble or these training treats work to reward behaviors your dog already knows. This is like your hourly rate at work. You do what needs done for your regular pay. Fresh foods to consider: tiny bits of carrot or green bean, cubes of cheese, or leftover (unseasoned) meat like roast chicken or pork.
- Mid-value rewards like freeze-dried liver are more like the commission you get on sales or tips not built into your hourly pay. (Not counting waitresses, but that’s another post for another blog.) Fresh foods to consider: cut up hot dogs, canned tuna fish, tiny bits of deli meat or cheese.
- High-value rewards are for teaching something new or working in an uncomfortable environment. This is your year-end-bonus level. Things that have worked for me and my array of dogs: squeeze cheese, pre-cooked rotisserie chicken strips from Costco, smoked salmon, any manor of freeze-dried cat treat, ground turkey.
Two toy options:
- For a dog who is strictly obsessed with balls, you can get a 20 pack for pretty cheap.
- If your dog is highly motivated by playing with you, whip out a tug toy as a reward after marking. I like this style or this one instead of a rope toy for safety’s sake.
The key is to experiment and discover what treats or toys are your dog’s MOST FAVORITE EVER and reserve those items for when you need a high-value reward. Then, work down. What will motivate your dog to work on a daily basis in the comfort of your home? Establish a few options ranging from high- to medium- to low-value for the appropriate circumstances.
The Nice-to-Have Tools for Positive Reinforcement Dog Training
You have your marker. You have your reward. Now what?
Here are a few things you definitely don’t need but do make training a smidge easier:
- A treat pouch: I’m not coordinated enough to juggle a leash, a clicker, and a handful of treats. Nor do I want to stuff my pockets full of shredded tuna fish. A treat pouch clips to your pants or secures around your waist with a belt and holds all the treats you need for training.
- There are cute options, like this colorful cross-body.
- Smaller, more affordable choices like this belt bag.
- Elaborate versions with poop bag dispensers and pockets for your keys or phone.
- And small, simple, easily washable ones like this small silicone choice.
- I have three treat pouches. One is a fanny pack with lots of pockets that I rarely use because the treats section isn’t easily accessible enough. Another is for outdoor adventuring and is too small to hold enough treats for purposeful training. I use the simplest the most, this basic pouch that I’ve used for probably 10 years and will replace with its exact replica once it’s done for.
- A mat: Whether you’re doing the Relaxation Protocol or you simply like to train in public spaces like cafes, a mat is super handy to have once you teach your dog to comfortably relax in that spot. The key is portability. You need to take it with you, so I like choices that roll up. Here are mat options:
Helpful Items to Have for Specific +R Training Goals
You don’t need to buy any of these, but they sure can be fun!
- hula hoop
- ball
- dots or other place markers
- crate
- agility equipment*
- a table*
*These can be prohibitively expensive, so you do not need them even if you want to do agility! You can balance a broom across two chairs to make a jump, for instance. You can build your own table or use a sheet draped over furniture for a tunnel.
Tip: Check your area’s Buy Nothing group on Facebook, Freecycle, craigslist, and so on for free or extremely discounted equipment. There’s always something available on mine!
In conclusion…
I can’t let this go without recommended a few books:
You do not need to spend a lot of money to train your dog with positive reinforcement. You and your dog do not have to both be able-bodied, fearless, and perfectly coordinated either. There’s a solution or a hack for everything! And if you don’t see what you need here, drop me a comment and let me know so I can source what will help you and your dog!
BTW, if you sign up for our Substack email list, there’s a super cool freebie coming very soon: an ebook called Positive Reinforcement Training for Dogs of All Abilities. It’s a full-length book chock full of everything you need to get started or re-up your positive reinforcement training. It’s free for subscribers, so sign up to get your copy!
But if you’re itching to learn more now, might I recommend these three relevant posts:
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